Insulation helps to regulate both temperature, condensation and noise level inside your campervan. This can be easily neglected, but it can often make or break a trip. In summer months, insulation stops you from overheating, while in winter it keeps your van cosy and warm,  which also reduces condensation levels during sleeping hours.

The optimal approach to insulating your van involves a combination of various materials to cover cavities and exposed areas. ‍ We use 35mm Insulation, Dodo Hex Sheets, and 7mm Thermoliner for insulating our campervan conversions. You can purchase the full kit here – buy now

35mm Insulation is a lightweight synthetic fabric that is often used in clothing and upholstery. It’s  also an excellent insulator, making it ideal for campervans. 

Thermoliner is a type of campervan insulation that helps to regulate the temperature inside the van. Plus, Thermoliner also helps to reduce noise levels; essential if you want to enjoy some peace and quiet while on the road.

Dodo sound deadening sheets are an optional additional layer for enhanced reduction in unwanted vibrations and structural noise. 

Insulating The Walls

Optional base layer – Dodo sound deadening sheet: If budget allows, apply these self-adhesive sheets to flat surfaces, below the thermoliner to reduce unwanted vibrations & structural noise.

Layer 1: 7mm or 10mm Thermoliner – Apply to as much steel work as possible (cut the thermoliner to the shape of the panel then peel the backing and stick).

Layer 2: 35mm Insulation – Ensure all the wall cavities are filled (simply tear and push the insulation into the spaces or use adhesive where required), and then layer over the Thermoliner to make a 2-layered system.

Wood Panels: If you plan to use 4-way stretch carpet lining, installing 6mm plywood panels on the wall provides a solid base for the carpet to be fixed to. Timber cladding is also a popular option.

NOTE: ONLY install the wood panels once you have laid all relevant wiring, and pipework – it won’t be easy to put this in afterwards.

Insulating The Floor

Raised platform: Install lengths of timber battens (such as 25mm x 15mm) to the metal van floor to create a raised platform for running cables and pipework. Fix with adhesive such as  Sikaflex 221 or screw into place.

Insulation – Apply a layer of 7mm Thermoliner  or Gold 5mm Underfloor Insulation between the joists on the van metal floor.

Plywood: Screw ply to the joists (we use 12mm thick). 

Insulating The Roof

7mm or 10mm Thermoliner – Apply to as much steel work as possible (cut the thermoliner to the shape of the panel then peel the backing and stick).

Wood Panels: If you plan to use 4-way stretch carpet lining, installing 6mm plywood panels on the roof provides a solid base. Timber cladding is also a popular option.

What quantities do I need?

Note: this is a guide only, and does not take into account windows etc where you will not have coverage. If you are measuring your own area, generally allow for an additional 10% wastage. 

DODO HEX SHEETS (self-adhesive) – buy now

7MM OR 10MM THERMOLINER (self-adhesive, so no glue is required) – buy now

35mm Insulation – buy now

Please note: The material we currently manufacture is 500g/sq.m set at 35~40mm off the production line. It is then vac packed into bags which make the packed rolls easier to handle and reduce storage space. However, by vac packing the material is compressed and the thickness is reduced by around 10%. Upon opening the bag there will be recovery, but this depends on how long it is left to rest, warmth and humidity.

Adhesive – buy now

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Before buying a van, carefully plan the layout, as this is the most critical step. Making changes later in the build can be time-consuming and costly. Here’s how to approach it:

Visualise Your Layout: Use a 3D planning tool, such as SketchUp or similar software, to design the interior layout.

1. Lighting and Appliances: Decide where you will install lights, power outlets, kitchen appliances, and any other necessary equipment.
2. Bathroom or Toilet Options: Will you incorporate a full bathroom, a shower, or simply a pull-out toilet for space-saving purposes?
3. Windows: Where will you put your windows, how many? If you want to reclassify your van to a motorhome, you will need to think about this carefully. 
4. Bed: Fixed or non-fixed
5. Bulkhead and Seating Choices: Consider if you want to keep the bulkhead (the bit of metal that separates the body of the van and the cab) to minimise noise in the cab, or install swivel seats to maximise the living space.
6. Off-Grid Capability: Consider installing solar panels, batteries, and other off-grid solutions if you plan to camp in remote areas. For cooking, heating, and hot water off-grid, a gas tank will also be essential.
7. Compliance with DVLA Standards: If you aim to reclassify your van as a motorhome, ensure your design meets the following DVLA criteria (check the DVLA website in advance as the criteria can change –DVLA Website)

• Windows: Install at least two windows on one side of the main body (not including driver or passenger door windows).
• Separate Access Door: Your living space should have a dedicated access door, and if this door has a window, it counts toward the window requirement.
• Exterior Features: Include motorhome-style graphics on both sides of the van, an awning bar, and a high-top roof (pop-tops are not acceptable).
• Required Internal Features: The DVLA mandates that your van must include these permanently fixed internal features to qualify as a motorhome:

Seating and Dining: Seats and a table, with the option to convert the seating into a bed.

Sleeping Quarters: Sleeping arrangements that are convertible or integrated with seating.

Cooking Facilities: Permanent cooking equipment.

Storage Space: Sufficient, rigidly fixed storage units.

By clearly indicating these features in your external and internal photos, you’ll make it easier for the DVLA to confirm compliance, for example by adding arrows using an online design software. You should also list the key features in your DVLA covering letter, and how your van meets the specification, ie:

“To Whom It May Concern,

We are submitting an application to reclassify our panel van as a motor caravan (motor home) in accordance with DVLA guidelines.

Vehicle Details:

• Model: Peugeot Boxer LWB Panel Van

• Modifications: We have modified the van to meet the visual criteria for motor caravans, as outlined by the DVLA.

Key Features:

• Windows: Two or more windows on at least one side of the main body, including two rear windows, three roof vents, two large side windows, and one small rear window on the right-hand side.

• Access: A separate door providing access to the living area.

• Exterior Graphics: Motor caravan-style graphics on both sides of the vehicle.

• Additional Features: Awning bar attached.

Please review the attached images, which highlight these modifications. Should you have any questions or need further details, feel free to reach out.

Thank you for your consideration.

The post How To re-classify as a ‘motor-caravan’ appeared first on The Campervan Shop.

• • • Lower Insurance Premiums – As campervans generally have fewer claims than registered panel vans, do fewer miles and aren’t used for commercial use, insurance can be between 10% – 50% cheaper.

   

  • • Contents Insurance – As campervans often contain personal belongings such as televisions and laptops, vehicles registered as campervans generally have better contents insurance than panel vans.

   

  • • Higher speed limit – Vans with an unladen weight of under 3050kg can travel at a maximum of 60mph on a dual carriageway. This increases to 70mph on a dual carriageway for vehicles registered as campervans. All other speed limits remain the same. Vehicles with a unladen weight over 3050kg (i.e. all 3500kg vans) have no change in speed limit when re-registering as a campervan.

   

  • • Cheaper MOT – Class VII vehicles (between 3000kg and 3500kg) registered as camper vans come under the cheaper and less restriction Class IV MOT rules. When inspecting the vehicle the MOT tester has to test the vehicle “as it is presented”. So if a campervan is presented, that would normally be class VII, even if it is not re-registered as a campervan, the MOT tester should test is as class IV vehicle.

   

  • Cheaper ferry prices – Traveling on a ferry is typically cheaper for a campervan or motorhome than a commercial van. Most ferry companies look at a converted campervan and are happy for it to pay the cheaper campervan price. However, a few ferry companies will use the DVLA log book classification to determine whether to price the vehicle as a commercial vehicle or not.

The post Benefits to registering a ‘motor-caravan’ with the DVLA appeared first on The Campervan Shop.

What Is a Cassette Toilet?

Traditionally, a campervan toilet flushes down into the black tank secured to your campervan’s underbody. When your black tank is full, you empty the contents at a dump station.

When using a cassette toilet, instead of the waste going into your black tank, it enters a small, portable waste tank. You can remove this waste tank, which rolls on wheels like a suitcase, and dump it at a public restroom or dump station.

How Does It Work?

The concept of a cassette toilet is similar to a portable one, but it’s permanently affixed to your camper. On the surface, it looks and acts much like a normal toilet. You’ll do your business, flush, and walk away. The actual difference is in the holding tank size and how you dump it.

How Do You Dump a Cassette Toilet?

Most tanks for your cassette toilet have a sensor that tells you when it reaches capacity. At that point, it’s time to empty it. You’ll have to do this much more often than you would a black tank, but it’s usually more convenient to do so.

After you’ve emptied the toilet bowl and turned the valve blade handle to closed, you’re ready to empty the holding tank. Typically, there will be a side access panel on the exterior of your camper where you can slide it out.

Most have a handle and rollers so that you can pull it behind you to the bathroom or dump station. If yours doesn’t, and you have to carry it, make sure you empty it before it gets too heavy!

When you’re ready to release the contents, open the dump spout on the tank and place it over the toilet or dump hole. Then, let gravity do its work. If you’re at a dump station, just let the waste flow. But if you’re using a regular toilet facility, you might flush two or three times during the process to prevent clogs or overflows.

Many portable tanks have a pressure release button that essentially helps push the waste out of the spout. Once you’ve lowered the spout into the hole or toilet, you can press this button to release the pressure–be very careful not to bump it before, or you’ll have a mess!

When all the waste has left the building, it’s time to clean it out. Pour some water into the tank and shake or swish it before emptying it again. You’ll probably have to do this several times to get it fully clean, so wait until the water runs clear before replacing the tank. Also, this is a good time to add a tank cleaner.

Benefits of Cassette Toilets

The primary difference between the two is that the cassette toilet isn’t really portable. It simply has a portable waste tank. It’s affixed to your camper, so you can’t take it anywhere you want.

A portable camping toilet, on the other hand, is mobile in every sense of the word. You can take it pretty much anywhere you can carry it. When it’s time to empty a portable toilet, you’ll typically remove the toilet seat and take the bottom to the restroom or dump station to empty it.

The dry flush toilet is another completely portable option that uses a bag-like liner to collect waste. When the bag is full, it gets removed and tossed in the trash. The other difference here is that the cassette toilet uses water to flush, while portable toilet options like the dry flush are waterless.

Difference Between a Cassette Toilet and a Portable Camping Toilet

The number one benefit of cassette toilets is their size. Many small campervans would not have toilets if it weren’t for this option.

The second reason that campervan-ers might want this commode is its portability. If you like camping off the grid, you don’t need to be near a dump station to empty it. You can drive it to the nearest restroom and empty it, freeing you to go wherever you wish. Plus, it only takes a few minutes.

Cassette Toilet Use and Maintenance Tips

To keep your toilet in tip-top condition, dump it frequently. If you’re traveling by yourself, dump it at least every four or five days and every two or three days if you’re with a group. You might find that you need to empty it sooner because it’s too heavy.

Cleaning your tank is as simple as pouring about half a cup of distilled white vinegar in there with some water after you empty it. Swishing that solution around regularly will reduce your chemical usage.

Clean your toilet regularly to avoid odors as well, and keep your bathroom clean by closing the lid before you “flush it” or open the valve blade.

These things might seem inconvenient in the moment, but doing them every time will keep your small throne functioning and reduce mishaps. Your toilet is the very last thing you want to malfunction when you’re boondocking in the middle of nowhere.

The post Cassette Toilets Explained: What They Are and How They Work appeared first on The Campervan Shop.

Here’s what you need:

• A good supply of High tempeture spray glue such as trimfix.
• 4-way stretch carpet liner.
• Plenty of latex gloves.
• A plastic straight edge for stretching and smoothing the carpet during application.
• A good strong Stanley knife – with plenty of blades!
• Good Quality Insulation.

Overview

1. Insulate the metal panels of the van and cover holes using strong duct or foil tape.
2. Fill the metal pillars with spray foam or fiberglass insulation. This will stop any cold bridging between the outside and inside and should help avoid damp spots.
3. Spray glue the carpet lining and the bare metal with a generous layer of glue. Hold the carpet in place for about 30 seconds until the glue has set and begin to work the carpet into place by stretching across curves and working into corners.
4. You need to shape the carpet liner around the joints between panels and pillars.

** Option to install Plywood on to the insulation layer to make for a smoother carpet finish and achieve a better level of insulation. **

If you plan on living in the van for an extended period, a warmer van is most definitely preferable!

Door Frame

1. Cutting the Felt / Carpet to size.

   Start on a small panel to find your bearings – a good place to start is the back door.
   Cut your carpet liner about 4 inches larger all around the door frame.
   Once the liner is cut, rest the liner down on the floor or on a sheet of plywood.
   The backside of the carpet liner is slightly harder and less fluffy!
   Make sure it is facing backside up when placed on the floor.

2. Applying glue to your carpet liner.

   Spray the back of the felt with a light layer of spray glue.
   Use a smooth consistent back and over movement.
   Overlap the spray slightly every time.
   Now move on to the panel.
   Spray the contact areas of the panel with a generous coating of spray glue using the same method of application.

3. Placing the carpet liner on the panel.

   Start at the top of the panel.
   Lift the liner up off the ground and let it hang freely.
   Now press the liner against the top of the panel.
   Hold in position for 30 seconds so that the glue begins to set slightly.
   Once the liner is hanging on the panel with the glue,
   Begin to rub the liner onto the panel from top to bottom, working your hand around the material to get rid of any wrinkles.
   You can stretch the material and mould it around corners, always rubbing with your hand to fix the liner.

4. Cutting off excess carpet liner.

   After the carpet is fixed correctly and all adjustments have been made, it’s time to remove the excess carpet liner.
   Use a sharp Stanley blade to score the felt inside the edge of the door panel.
   Make sure to leave a metal surface where the rubber door seal meets the door because the carpet will cause the seal to leak.
   Repeat the same process on the larger panels.
   For the larger panels you will not be able to spray the whole sheet of carpet before fitting it to the wall, you will have to hang the carpet at the top first.
   Then spray glue each piece underneath while working it onto the wall of the van.
   It is a tricky process, and you will need help if this is your first time.

Metal Frames

Carpet lining the metal frames around the panels of your van:

1: Make sure you have all your insulation and wiring complete – you will not be able to access behind the pillars or through the access holes once the carpet is fitted.

2: Start at the top and work down – cut a strip for the top section, leaving enough to overlap the edges into the removable panel sections.

3: Spray a generous layer onto the metal.

4: Spray a light layer onto the back of the felt.

5: Stick one end to the metal surface and work your way along the liner to the other end.

6: Go over the felt again, stretch out the material to work out any wrinkles.

The Roof

Carpet lining the roof of your van:

Carpet lining a campervan roof is a little harder, so you will need some help with this one!

1: Cut the liner with enough excess to allow for error and edging correctly.

2: Spray the ceiling with a generous layer of glue before fitting.

3: Start at the front end of the van and spray a light layer of glue to the back of the felt about 4″ wide.

4: Fix the front edge of the felt to the ceiling, holding it in place until it is set.

5: Now begin to work your way back along the ceiling – apply some glue to the back of the liner each time before you apply the liner.

6: Work the wrinkles out by stretching and rubbing at the same time.

Wheel Arches

How to carpet a wheel arch of your van:

1: When carpet lining a wheel arch, start in the middle and work your out – cut the liner leaving enough excess to allow for good coverage and folding under the panels.

2: Spray a generous layer of glue to the wheel arch first.

3: Spray a light layer on the back of the liner.

4: Work the liner into the crease in the center of the wheel arch.

5: Now start to rub from the center outwards, making sure you fix the carpet to the arch everywhere.

Remember, you can stretch the carpet to suit.

The post STEP by STEP guide to Carpet Lining your Campervan – Arches to Roof! appeared first on The Campervan Shop.